This is what I am building. Converting a 1984 CJ8 to a 1955-1964 M-170 Ambulance/Troop hauler (most of the way).
Front Line Ambulance Truck M-170 is designated as a special equipment vehicle as defined in AR 700-105.










I sprayed the engine, tranny & T-case with one can of 23070 OD. It's cold out so there is a little sheen to it because it's taking longer to dry. I am going to order more paint on Monday and start on the tub, I will give you before & after pics.

Before:


Before: Yes that's a Holly 650 double pumper.


After: I think I have some stock valve covers for the 360, I have to look in my inventory.






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Well I got the new Fording Kit for the M-170 build, the hose is on the way, it will be here shortly.

I did not seperate them yet but the black pipe is the air hose support pipe. The green pipe is the Fording pipe. The cap is for the top of the hose. All are NOS-New Old Stock.




HERE is how/where the rear tail pipe hooks up to go under water:


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Ok, here it is, the snorkle hose, heavy duty. That old cloth fabric sure does feel good, no plastic here folks.



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O.K. The frame is done, (it may have a little sheen to it, just painted but it drys fast). It took 2 1/2 cans & waiting on the primer to do the tub.
I sanded the black rustolem w/a scotch bright pad & got rid of the gloss. The pad took it down very well & the paint sticks great. I love this OD paint, touch up is a breeze.
The pics were took in the garage under floresent lights & w/a flash, the paint should look different out in the sunlight.
Next I'll work on the axles & springs.











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Well here are some more pics of the conversion, note the front spring hangers, these were in the rear but I'm using the rear springs up front. I even welded a brace on each side for strength, cheaper than the ones they sell & probably as strong. I built a set of springs for the back. I used yJ Sky Jacker spring & added some leafs for towing, towing air bags will be in the future, maybe. The tire carrier you see mounts on the roll bar of the Jeep, I think it will look good mounted w/the Military tire on it.

Here U go:


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Well heres the front bumper & bumperets, the bumper is bent just a little but I'll replace maybe in the future------> Freeeebeeeee, nothing, nada. Next is the steering column, dash & axles.







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Well my new stainless brake ($$) & fuel lines are here w/the clips. The $146.08 fuel line (w/clips) is (5/16") the darker looking stainless w/the blue caps on the ends. I just bought the line from the tank to the pump since I won't run a return line. I bought the fuel line from In-line tube & the brake lines from Quadra-Tec.



Getting there,

P.S. All the other stuff (NOS parts, lights etc.) are in transit, I'll post pics when the stuff gets in.

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Well the shovel w/bracket, side mirror w/bracket, rear view mirror (in box), Tail black outs & front black out lights, front lifting shackles w/pins, chains & mounting base & reflectors are in. YAAaaaaa. :2thumup: :dance1:

Pics below:





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Well look what I just bought on eBay for $46.00/55.35 w/shipping.

Now I can realiy go underwater, :sneak: . For those of U who have K&N, :biggrin1: j/k.

P.S. I have to find or make a air filter for it now. Any ideas? :scratch:





Here is the sellers comments:
This is a very nice and straight M38A1 air cleaner. There are no dents and the paint appears to be pretty good. It needs to be cleaned off though. This one comes with all the parts you see attached to it in the pictures. The inside looks new. These are commonly missing from M38A1s but if you looking, I guess you know that.
I have a bunch of other M38 and M38A1 stuff up for auction, I'm cleaning out my parts collection since I just picked up a new toy and need the room.

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O.k. got the filler hoses from *--*- & all the SS lines are installed. Just finished installing the steering box w/the shaft after fighting the front shackle. If U look at the previous post w/the shackles U will notice I used a gusset on each side of the shackle, well it works fine as long as the steering bracket is left off. U can only gusset the outside of the shackle so the bracket will fit. I had to grind one side off but I did weld the bushing housing to the backing to make it stronger.

I used the rear of the stock shackle & I cut the old front CJ ones off to make a spacer so I didn't have to grind off the rivet.

Now I did buy a pair from JCW for the rear that were gusseted (if that is a word) but they are allot thinner metal & cheap. So use the rear up front & buy or get a set for the rear.

I have pics but I am working on my NEW album from my NEW host so I will have to post them here later.
Hopefully I can get the tub on next weekend (trying to get moved) so I can move my project to my NEW warehouse which will be for my NEW site etc.

P.S. It steers, :biggrin1:

O.K. here's some pics, paint still kind of wet & it looks like I missed a couples of spots but that's O.K. I'll catch it later.















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The panel just arrived, notice how the top edge is not rolled into the door seat but it is stepped into the door seat, (meanning where the door hits & seals). The top right inside door seat of the stamp is correct, just not the bottom of the door seat.

I bought it to cut it up & use for filler pieces on the 8 so I'm not worried about the door seat, I just wanted to point it out to those who might purchase one. I did over lay it on the body & it is very close.







P.S. Notice where it was made, :2thumup: . At least it wasn't made in China

I believe that you can get replacement air filters at any auto parts store. The Mite takes a Wix filter that fits into a very similar type of filter housing.

Thank you, I did not know that, I'll check.

P.S.

Woreout8 donated a set of 6mo old Super lift springs (2.5") & so they were installed them on the rear (SOA)(might need a step ladder to work under it . Here are some pics of the height of the frame ONLY :shock: & the finished install of the rear pack/shocks. The frame is sitting on 33's. :scratch:







:scratch: look where they R made. Tranny Doc should like that




We will be building a set of rock guards later on w/a step. Oh, did I mention, adding the body to this measurement would make the top of the rear of the Jeep 5' off the ground plus a 1"BL. It should setting some, I hope. There is a 12" load spring to help when I tow the camper. I hope it doesn't crack the spring where the load spring ends, still contemplating whether or not to leave it due to that reason.

Oh no, I just realized I didn't prime the shocks & then OD them. Jim is gonna have my tuercas.

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Ok, I went on Tom Woods site to get some info on the DS angles etc. (as U can see I'm using his business card w/the scale on the back of it ) I have a cardan joint DS out of a J10 (kept in stock) which is to short for the rear so I set the original CJ's rear DS in place w/out the U-J cups just to see where I'm at. T-Woods says, If you do have a substantial lift on the vehicle, you may want to consider a double cardan (CV) drive shaft since with a conventional two joint drive shaft you need to keep the output of the transfer case & the pinion parallel within 1 degree, and in relationship to either the drive shaft should be running at absolutely no greater than 15 degrees (this is a pushed limit). If you cannot fall within this parameter, then you will want to pitch the differential so that the pinion points directly at the output of the transfer case (maintaining 3 degrees, or less, a joint angle at the differential end) & use a double cardan (C.V.) drive shaft.

So here is what I have (w/out the cups but it's very close, I guess I could put them in but this is just preliminary). 14-15* on the stock set up. The pinion is almost parallel to the t-case & the DS is almost fully collapsed. (looking for a flywheel for a 360 so I can mount my T-176 back in, donations excepted )

Can't find my dial indicator

I do have a 1" T-case drop kit in stock but hate to use it.

I also have some 6* shims.
















Maybe I should just go w/the 2.5 SUA & the 1"BL @ least that is what the rest of the family is suggesting.

Here's my son sanding down the shocks so they can be painted OD green so JimB would have a cow w/the white ones


Here's the old man tightening down a shock.


More to come.

Just a note: had to re-convert to a the SUA (picks when the camera gets new batteries), the War Dept's troops said it was to tall. Oh well, at least everything will go back easier. When my dial indicator comes in I will check the outers for the degree that they are setting & if need be add shims to obtain 4-6* of castor with 6* being the optimum.

P.S. I have a pretty good color scheme coming up for the axles that might look good. I have to paint them before the tub goes on. What do you think about this.
1. Outers=Black
2. Tubes=OD
3. Pumpkin=Black
4. Steering=OD
5. DS=Black

I measured the height of the total finish and the top of the 8's rear bed would have been @ 5 feet w/the 2.5" SOA. I'm not getting any younger so the kids twisting my arm said that it would be better off lowered. So the plan still stands w/the 2.5" seen below & the 1" Day-star BL I have in stock. I think it will be plenty high for me & I can go most places in the South East. It did cut down on expense & build time. I just wish I could come up w/a Flywheel for the 360 so I could mount my clutch, then my DS would not have to be shortened on one end & lengthen on the front. If I do do it, I'll do a write up on it. Since I bought the kit a year ago I might as well replace the seals on the D-300 since it started to leak. Easier to do it now.

So, here are some pics of the 2.5" frame only w/yJ shackles w/6* shims in the rear axle (I do have the big long ones but...........).
Next, brake lines paint then the D-300 re-seal, gear swap, DS & get rid of those shinny V-covers & put the stock one on painted black.

OK, took the Dana 300 off the T176 today to re-seal it from the PO. Below are some pics.

Remove shifter and shift plate for twin stick


Remove D-300


D-300 on the cooler


Rear of T176-clean


Removing front yoke nut


Removing yoke w/my steering wheel puller-sorry, all I had


See, I told you it would work, slid right off


Front seal leaking


Remove pan to drain it quicker


Funky stuff, looks like it may of had condensation or some H20 in it


Not any more


Shift rail holder & bolt


Removing aluminum housing to replace seals


Blue loc-tight on shift rail bolt


Aluminum housing re-attached & sealed


Super 300 on the housing where the seal is going to prevent leaks


More super 300


Super 300 on the outside edge of the shift rail seal


Tap shift rail seal in w/a piece of conduit (thick wall), make sure U hold it straight, I cocked the seal but drove it home


Super 300 on front yoke seal & aluminum housing


Grease the front yoke seal rubber & the outside with super 300


Remove & clean front yoke rear bearing cover & shims


Put super 300 on the T-case then install one shim & more super 300, then the last shim & super 300 on the cover.
NOTE: Do not use RTV, it might set the tolerance off on the shims.


Clean bolt threads & dab some blue loc-tight & install cover


Install T-case back on T176-put grease on the output seal of the tranny.


RE-install in the reverse order and follow the torque spec & you are good to go. Sorry, didn't have time to document it.

Well, I took the portioning valve apart & cleaned it up, have to go to Lowe's to get two bolt so I can tap the frame (trying to make all my bolts/nuts American standard).










The fluid came out a little rusty but clean.





BTW-it cleaned up well, thanks Ian.

I painted the plate w/Galvanized primer then flat black & then OD green.

Well, the SS hard brake lines are installed. Next, the soft rubber hoses.

Ok, I moved the brake lines so they wouldn't be in the way while backing. I will fine tune them later when I install the brake hose's.


Here are some pics of the underside of the CJ8 tub. Getting ready to clean/prime/paint.

Rear:


Middle:


Front:


Whole tub:

Look what I found in one of my boxes, thought I lost it.




Tub rusted areas sprayed w/Metal ready. Now, the directions do not say, but do you rinse the M-ready off. I don't think so. Hummm,

One Qt of Por-15 painted w/a brush.

Well, I used up all but two spray cans of the 23070 OD from Gillespie's, still have one gallon of 23070 OD left, two spray cans & one gallon of the Red Oxide left. Had two get my money's worth even if I spent it three years ago. I could have enhanced some of the pics but I wanted them left as is.







Enhanced version:


Taping the holes two days after the Por-15 & paint job. Yes, those couple of holes in the floor pan are for historical purposes

OK, here it goes. Need a little help here.

I took out the filler cause I was looking @ options as far as mounting the military lights. As you can see, there is plenty of room if the filler is moved to the side of the Jeep. Now, if I don't move it, the light on the filler side will not work (veryyyyy tight, maybe, doubt it) unless I mount it outside & just through bolted it (look like :fan2: ) to the tub, it would stick out just as far as the stock (oh, no) square tail lights.

Below are some pics of my meaning.



Don't rag me about the paint job, remember what Dave said.


Now, it will fit up in there a little more, the plastic housing is holding it back.


The gas lines run through this hole. Also, look @ the fillers metal, where it mounts to the plastic it is ROUND . I could get rid of the plastic housing & just hole saw the outside & mount it using an old style cap. Second thought, just hit me this second, if it is there & I hit some trees etc. .......... Maybe to much to worry about.


Showing the metal rib on the right of the plastic housing.


See, there is room up in the triangle section.

Well sanded, primed & painted the Sway bar tonight. I also tweeked the twin stick brackets for a final fitting (had to weld a bridge & re-grind one) tonight, primed & paint them as well.








Twin stick brackets-fit like a glove.




Note: All OD will be touched up @ final inspection.

Mock up of twin stick (maybe could use one more washer but I have to think about it), I tried the bushing as per the write up on this forum but it seemed to go easier w/washers. I also used the old pins for the shift rails as the others were short calling for a 3/4" (really needs to be about 1 1/4"-1 1/2"Max by the time you get the washer/loc-washer/nut on etc.) I will not bend the shifter itself until the tub is on & I see where I want it. I did have to open the hole where the pins go on the flat-stock as they were tight. If you used the flat-stock dimensions (I recommend you do) you will need a Dremel to fine tune it but you will be happy with the results.

Twin Stick Post

Mock up of the sticks.

Got the gas tank painted & installed. 1985 factory 20 gallon polly tank.

Sender


Top of tank-vents


Tank prepped/cleaned & painted w/Red Oxide




Tank painted w/23070 OD




Tank installed

Trans cooler to add to the build-Hayden 1404 complements of TransTech (5410 W. State Road 84) in Davie, Florida 33314


Thanks Dino

Received my reconditioned 3 core radiator today thanks to Bobby (CoolBeans) and his radiator guy.


Thanks CoolBeans

Installed the trany lines and plumbed in the gas tank. Ready to set the tub on Saturday.





Mounted the lines on the motor mount for easy removal & they are far enough from the exhaust manifold.


Tank plumbed in. Ran vent line through the frame to the front/charcoal canister. Covered the S-Steel lines to prevent chaffing.

Rear brake hose installed


T-case vent line installed

Well thanks to some of the CCJ club, the tub was installed today along with the 1" daystar BL. Sorry I couldn't get more involved pics but someone had to do something Next week, prep/paint.

Scott had to weld the two rear nuts inside the frame, when tightening, they spun.








Looks like I need to do some touch up painting, in the end of course.






Notice the Twin Stick and the notch cut out, just enough and the original cover will still fit like original.

Well, removed some surface rust, use por's metal ready, primed the bare spots to prevent more rust, sanded and wet sanded the tub. Next I will go over some shiners & the prime the entire tub with Red Oxide Primer.

Welded tailgate & primed it


Sanded & ground the tub's rust spots


Getting ready to "Metal Ready" the tub's rusted areas


Wet down driveway


Primed bare spots after wet sanding






Sanded outside of tub


Wet sanding outside of tub


Primed bare spots after wet sanding










CJ's RULE

OK, the prep is done for the U-POL Raptor spray in bedliner. I have to wash it tomorrow morning and then tape it off/spray it.



Below are some pics of the POR-15 applied.

Bulkhead


Backside of windshield hinges


Windshield mounting locations




Front cowl. This will stay since it is behind the dash etc.


Drivers side door jamb just above the joint


Bulkhead joint and side walls done


Bulkhead installed





Now here is where I sanded the tub w/180 grit and hand sanded/buffed the tub w/a red Scotch pad per the U-POL instructions. I added the 180 grit, wanted the stuff to stick as good as it can.








Tomorrow I wash the tub, air dry it, tape it off and spray

Taping tub off for Raptor bed-liner spray






Taping off the bolt holes etc.




Shooting the Raptor. IMO, a lot better then the roll on liner for the ease of application/looks


First coat shot and out in the sun to bake


Having fun


Touch up out in the sun so I could see better




Finished, removing tape






Jr removing some tape


Jr removing the tape off the foot of the roll bar


Tub complete










Tub complete, sorry about the camera angle


OD color contrast on how it will look when completed




Ok I'm tired and I am very please w/this product. Prep was 180 grit and then followed up by a red Scotch pad. I wanted it really scuffed due to some of the POR-15 used and old paint on top of paint. Way to easy w/the spray on. I had the compressor @ 120psi and regulated the spray @ the gun. I did some test shots w/just air w/the compressor set @ 50psi to get the feel, then raised the compressor and adjusted @ the gun. Worked out well and when I changed bottles I just unhooked the air line to keep the consistency for the next bottle. After the first coat & stuck the gun in some lacquer thinner and shot until the gun was clean. Waited an hour while it bakes in the sun & shot the last coat w/the main object concentrating on the bed since it will take the most abuse. So, how does it look? I'm sure it will pop when the OD gets on there.

Fenders & hood sanded


POR-15 on lightly rusted areas




POR-15 on battery tray, hood support, vacuum can, jack plate & fender supports


Since I am doing OD & black I think the black accents under the hood would look good.

Washed everything down for final paint




Taped off ready for final paint




Jr. putting on the final tape touches






Testing spray gun pattern


Painting hood


Grill painted


Roll bar painted


Hood & bumper painted


Fender painted, need final coat on the inner panel


Painting tub










Waiting second coat-this stuff drys fast in this heat so I waited about 30min




Applying second heavy coat


Tailgate latches OD


Final paint now drying


Installing rock guards later so they will hide the damaged spots & I fill /soaked them w/POR-15










Roll bar foot sprayed w/U-POL to blend in w/the bed-liner










Underside of hood, note the black accents w/POR-15


Look at that sweet CJ grill, just as happy as can be

Battery tray painted w/POR-15


Vacuum can & jack plated painter w/POR-15


Protection plate


Steering shaft installed


Fender braces mocked up


Front clip installed






Front turn signals painted (will install military lighting later when I have time to figure it out)


ROUND headlight bezels painted


Lights installed in the grill






Note: all hardware is stainless steel, nuts, bolts, washers, loc-washers.

(NOS) WWII snorkel parts painted


(NOS) WWII snorkel mast re-painted


(NOS) WWII snorkel mast mounted with stainless steel bolts




Roll bar bolted in with grade 8 bolts which will be touched up with black paint


(NOS) Reflector location


(NOS) Snorkel nose being straightened

Snorkel installed








Final hose placement


Measuring for cut out


Cutting hole, note the safety gear






Trimming fender lip, gotta love the guard on the cutter


Trimming fender edge with a file


After many times of raising the hood for fitment we have finished. I know the front is supposed to have a "S" shape but I wanted it close.




Front snorkel & clip




Jr getting the wiring sorted and cleaning up the parking brake connector






Under hood wiring


Jr getting the dash stripped for paint


Dizzy pigtail from PO




Dizzy pigtail from PO, notice the green wire on this tail




Dizzy pigtail from factory harness




Wiring under hood

Jr. sanding dash panel


Dash panel painted and drying




Dash panel dried


Spare mount, need to add spacer and angle up-wards for the 33" tire to fit




Reflector mounted in the area of the original Jeep M-170


Jr. laying out the figures for the name placement




Jr. laying out the name


Last name layed out


Whole name layed out


Stripping away the tape to reveal the name


Name complete


After scuffing the letter cut outs with a scotch pad I painted the name on the Jeep


Name revealed. This was my old name on the Willy's, it came from the Military with it on the Jeep so I thought I would resurrect it

To replace the heater core. Remove the back cover, use a 1/4" driver and it takes a 1/4" socket.


Remove heater core


Replace heater core and reinstall the back cover


After installing the back panel paint the panel with POR-15 to prevent rust from reoccurring


Tape of gauges for paint




Paint the back side of the dash with POR-15 to prevent rust in the joints and where the metal to metal meet

Gauges installed




Gauges wired up, hope they are right




Panel wired up/items installed


Installing dash




Dash install complete


Forgot to get the seatbelt bolt out for new seat belts (didn't hurt the U-POL bed liner). Had to weld a bolt on the torque head.


Installing seat bet latches


Installing drivers seat






Installing passenger seat


Pinched finger, bracket is bent, need to straighten it out more than I did


Seats in. Need to get a longer bolt for the set belt to roll bar

Installed new seat belts with grade five bolts, hardened washers and loc-washers


Temporarly bolted the tops to the roll bar




Need longer feed through bolt for hard top installation

Installing 195* T-stat


PO used plenty of goop & blocked off the goose neck outlet




My daughter installing the master cylinder


Removed PO block off plate and installing the 6505 fuel pump










Water pump hose installed


3/4" heater hose installed


Starter solenoid installed

Spliced spare module for the nutter by-pass, heat shrinked connectors and greased connector


Module ready to install


Module installed


Radiator over flow jug


Need bracket for over flow jug


Radiator, hoses and fan installed


Heater hoses & fuel line to carb installed


Tranny cooler installed-courtesy of TransTech of Ft. Lauderdale, Florida


Can I do this for off-road and cut vent lines in the top of the hose?


Is this port for the vacuum advance for the distributor?

Look what Summit sent me. Called Lokar & saved big time going w/Summit.

Installed Lokar's kick down bracket


Installed radiator cap (all they had was a 16lb)


Installed foot dimmer switch


Installed fuel filter


Accel super coil (need bracket), mine is rusted but workable


Installed OC handle

Received the air/vent cables and the front extended brake lines


Vent cables installed but the TEMP knob pulled off the hard line. Nothing like factory, maybe JB weld will hold it

Installed SS extended brake hose




Installed factory bump stops until I get around to newer ones


Drilling hole for manual choke installation (had one in the tool box since 2005)


Location of manual choke bracket


Manual choke bracket installed


Slide cable/sheath through the bracket and lock it down w/the lock nut


Slide choke cable through the drilled hole


Choke cable dead ended




Set desired length for sheath then cut (remove the cable from inside first)




Slide cable back through the sheath


Open the choke to set the cable, pull tight


Operate choke


Received oil back flow block off plate from Bulltear today

Jr taping up the windshield for touch up


Windshield touched up


Windshield installed w/new cowel rubber


Jr cleaning hard top


Hard top installed. Need to shoot it with the U-POL Raptor to match the bed








VIN Plate & charcole canister holder painted/POR-15


Brake lines installed

Front axle vent line installed w/stainless steel self taping screw, will add filter later


T-case vent tube installed, will add filter later


Heat shrinking connector on coil connection. After this I decided to go w/a bolted connection on the coil




Windshield vent deflector installed. Will not install dash pad, keeping it old school as much as I can

Ground straps to be installed


Ground strap bolted to the starter


Ground straps bolted to the engine frame mount


Drilling hole in fender for 3/8" x 1 1/2" ground strap bolt


Bolt installed (couldn't find a Brass or Copper bolt, will change out later)


Ground straps installed


Main ground strap and negative end of battery installed to the strap


Main ground strap, starter strap & engine block strap installed


Drilling pilot hole for stainless steel self tapping screw to install ground strap to negative side of battery


Strap installed for negative side of battery


Grounding & straps complete. Note: I installed one to the dash panel as well

Mounted coil to the drivers side fender.

Drill holes


Coil bolted down with stainless steel bolts






Splicing wire to the resistor wire (red with white stripe)


Heat shrinked, taped and read for the wire loom


Coil ends ready for crimping


Coil ends crimped


Heat shrinking coil connector ends


Coil connected

Rear drive shaft cut down & installed. Thanks for the help Scott

More pics, Jeep arrived out West last week and I'm continuing to build, getting there.

Mechanical oil line installed and dead ended to gauge in rubber hose part way then 1/4" wire loom into cab for protection


Vacuum line installed in 1/2" wire loom for protection






Vacuum line plumbed to engine and vapor canister








GM Charcole canister
Orange dot = Vacuum
Green/purple dot = PCV
Purple swirl = Tank
Green lines = Carb bowl
Fire flame = main Vacuum

Part number-17060868 BC

I do not have a carb bowl vent to hook up so I guess I leave it plugged.


Lokar cable install

Ok, made the new tunnel plate and installed B&M shifter.

Stock tunnel plate


Raw metal for tunnel plate


Tracing out stock tunnel plate




Getting ready to cut the metal stock




Grinding the edges of the new tunnel


Edges ground


Holes drilled in plate


Trace for twin stick cut out




Every thing smoothed out and painted, shifter in position (temp) to be bolted down


Shifter bolted down


Shifter cover installed, need to cut the housing so it sits flush on tub






Shifter bracket installed on tranny


Once the build is complete ever thing will be cleaned up.

Installed a engine block heater on the AMC-360. Aprox 1 hr install time, start/clean up.

NAPA Part Number for '74, AMC-360V8


Engine Block Heater Components











Used RTV


Freeze plug location, passenger side, rear


Remove starter


Freeze plug behind starter
[imghttp://www.street2mud.com/albums/M170Start/100_2994.sized.jpg[/img]

Starter removed, not sure what the hole is, maybe casting.


Freeze plug location, passenger side, rear


Starting to remove freeze plug






Used vise-grip needle nose pliers to work out the plug






Freeze plug removed


Clean out block


RTV on rubber gasket of heater


Block heater installed


Block heater cord installed and RTV added for sealant


Wire loom being installed on heater cord and cord routing

Installed the radiator overflow bottle, next, installing the hoses. Couldn't find a NOS one.

OK guys here is what I bought from NAPA. Intake leaking from the water jacket so I need to re-install it.